Vie ferrate

The ascent of the mount Civetta

The via normale of the mount Civetta is one of the most famous 3000 metre climbs of the Dolomites known to alpinists. The classic route climbs up the deep eastern valley and is mostly a via ferrata of medium difficulty with great views. Shelter at the rifugio Torrani just below the summit is highly appreciated. The itinerary descriptions below are differentiated by the route chosen to the start of the climb. Overall challenging. 

 

 To reach the start of the climb: 

 

-Approach from the Grava
Easy
2,30 h
elevation gain 820 m
Cai signage 557
starting point from le Vare or la Grava.

 

- Approach from Crep di Pecol
Easy
2 h one way only
elevation gain 680 m
Cai signage 585; 558; 557
Starting point from Pecol

 

- Approach from rifugio Coldai
a few easy with equipped sections
2 h (from rifugio Coldai)
elevation gain 630 m
Cai signage 556; 557
Starting point from Palafavera.

 

From the start of the climb (about 2350 m), scramble up the rock base and then through a crack to a ledge (Passo del Tenente) which takes to another scrambling section and a chimney-crack. Climb over these on the flat rock on the left. The path continues up a scree and a rocky terrain and reaches another high rock face, where it rises diagonally left up a ramp. Proceed easily along a ledge to a gully and a little valley. Reach the Pian della Tenda along ledges up to the rifugio Torrani (2984 m, 3 h from the start of the climb). Climb up the rubble behind the hut (possible snowfield) to reach the summit (45 minutes from the hut; 3220 m). 

 

Before to start please verify the conditions of the itinerary contacting the Alpine guides of Val di Zoldo.

 

Guide Alpine Val di Zoldo - Alpine guides
Via M. Punta 2/b 
32012 Val di Zoldo (BL) 
Tel: +39 328 2170815 - +39 347 2990255 
www.guidealpinevaldizoldo.it  
[email protected] 


Guide alpine Mountainfree - Alpine guides
Tel: 340 37 88 018 Daniele Geremia (Guida Alpina)
[email protected]  
www.mountainfree.net 


Difficulty: cable-equipped sections, overall difficult
Travel time: 6-7 h dall'attacco/from the start of the climb
Altitude: 3220 m
Difference in height: 770 m dall'attacco/from the start of the climb
Dolomitic Group: Civetta
Departure: Start of the climb (about 2350 m)
Arrival: Summit of the Civetta (3220 m)
Recommended period: Summer
Attendance: Medium


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