Via Normale - to the top of Mount Pelmo
- Difficulty: See the description
- Precision time: 8-10 h
Beautiful, interesting and difficult itinerary which allows you to reach one of the most beautiful and important summits of the Dolomites. Amazing view from the summit of the Civetta group, Moiazza and the surrounding valleys. The itinerary is long and exposed in sections, you need to be used to walking on delicate terrain with scree and rocks and on exposed ledges with many climbing sections that have difficulties up to I and II grade.
From Rifugio Venezia follow path no.480 in a north-westerly direction along an itinerary with dwarf pines and then along scree. At the first junction leave the path which continues towards Forcella Val d’Arcia and climb up to the left towards the rocks. Follow a trail with old red marks which allows you to overcome the first step and reach the base of the Ball ledge.
Follow the ledge in a southerly direction, flat and then slightly uphill with an exposed itinerary along a trail. Go by three gullies which carve through the ledges. In the last gully you will find the famous Passo del Gatto, considered the crux of the ascent. It is a section which you have to tackle on all fours to overcome a jutting out section (II grade, peg and old rope).
After this section the ledge becomes more accessible even if it is always exposed and leads to the lower border of the large debris covered basin between Pelmo’s two buttresses. Climb up the valley zig zagging up to the base of a rock band. The itinerary continues overcoming a few steps still winding its way up to the upper Vant cirque.
Climb up now westwards all the way to the ridge. From here with an exposed itinerary heading south-west you reach the top.
Along the uphill itinerary.
From Forno di Zoldo drive up to the village of Zoppé di Cadore. Once you have left your car in Sagui walk up to the hut along path no. 471 approx. one and a half hours.
Long and difficult in physical terms due to the remarkable length and vertical height gain. It requires excellent physical form. Technically difficult it has moves of grade II and many exposed sections.
Gear: Normal ferrata gear. At the beginning of summer an ice axe may come in useful.
Maps: Cartina Tabacco 025
Before to start please verify the conditions of the itinerary contacting the Alpine guides of Val di Zoldo.