Val de le Ziolere cliff
- Precision time:
Val de le Ziolère spreads out below the rifugio Sonino al Coldai, in the Monte Civetta group, in the Zoldo Dolomites. This dolomia crag covered in pockets allows one to climb during hot summer days on account of its exposure.
The ideal starting point is Palafavera (1514m), after the village of Pecol, shortly before Forcella Staulanza. To reach the crag you should head up with the Palafavera chairlift (open during the summer season) and from the top of the chairlift walk down hill to Malga Pioda; head up briefly along the mule track which leads to rifugio Coldai to the first switch back bend and from here, beyond the fence, traverse up high slightly uphill in a southerly direction, along a not always evident track which goes across the pastures.
Follow the cairns and once you have reached a small hill, head up following a more marked trail, to a plateau with a water spring; shortly after take a narrow path which leads you slightly downhill, through dwarf pine trees, to the base of the crag. It takes roughly 40 minutes from the top of the Palafavera chairlift to reach the Val de le Ziolère crag; to return to Palafavera, once you have reached Malga Pioda along the same itinerary you can climb up and take the chairlift or head downhill along the forestry road (roughly 35 minutes from the Malga).
North-east, in summer the sun shines on the rock face only during the early hours of the morning. The meadows at the base of the routes however are in the sun until late afternoon.
Rock and climbing
The rock is cliff-like dolomia with pockets and flakes, of excellent quality. Apart from the central slab on black rock where the routes are leaning and covered in holds, the rest of the climbing is athletic and almost always overhanging. The routes have pockets and underclings and the climbing is often not easy to read. At the base of the rock face you will find a topo of routes and difficulties.
All the routes are bolted and have abseil anchors with a carabiner. Many routes are 30m long. We recommend a 60m rope and a set of 15-16 quick draws.
A short history
The crag was discovered and bolted thanks to the strong climber Stefano Ciprian who in 1997 was looking for a spot to train throughout the year. Between 2001 and 2002 the Mountain Guide Francesco Tremolada bolted another 10 easier routes making this nice crag even more interesting.
Back up points and info
Palafavera campsite tel. +39 0437 788506
Always consult a local alpine guide to check the conditions of the routes.
Guide Alpine Val di Zoldo - Alpine guides
Via M. Punta 2/b
32012 Val di Zoldo (BL)
Tel: +39 328 2170815 - +39 347 2990255
Guide alpine Mountainfree - Alpine Guides
Tel: 340 37 88 018 Daniele Geremia (Guida Alpina)